Flight Time / September 2016

24 / 132

24 SEPTEMBER
INSPIRATION TIME
“Smoking and curing are based on traditions that are centuries old – the beginning of cooking, if
you like – and there is a real desire to get back to quality methods…”
CONCIERGE
What’s your connection to East Devon?
I moved here when I started working with Hugh and
we were setting up the original River Cottage HQ.
What inspires you about the area?
The rolling hills of the countryside and the coastline
are obvious geographical draws to this part of the
world.There is also a very good balance of tradition
and progression.The food scene is very vibrant and
this brings an energy to the area but also benefits
the amazing producers who have been based here in
family-run businesses for years. Lastly, there is a great
community of people in this area, and I have always
been inspired by their spirit.
Tell us about your role at River Cottage.
I have worked at RC since the beginning, which is
around 13 years. My role is varied but it is split across
teaching,TV and writing. I also represent RC both
here and abroad at events ranging from festivals to
working with some of the world’s top chefs.
What’s so special about River Cottage,
for you?
There is a very clear ethos and direction working
at RC and this of course is mostly down to Hugh,
but also within the team there is a passion and
desire to do the right thing. We benefit from being
a globally-recognised brand and that means we get
visitors from all over the world. It is great to have the
opportunity to meet such a diverse array of people.
We are also situated in a wonderful location and it is
never a chore to go to work.
As the curing and smoking expert for River
Cottage, why do you think there’s been a
resurgence in these kinds of techniques?
Smoking and curing are based on traditions that
are centuries old – the beginning of cooking, if you
Steven Lamb
Curing and smoking expert,
River Cottage HQ
EAST DEVON
like – and there is a real desire to get back to quality
methods. It is also true that in the UK we have
always had quality food products and high welfare
systems that lend themselves to such methods. I
think there will be a very strong renaissance of small,
independent artisan producers making regional
versions of hams, salami and pancetta that will
become world-renowned in the near future. It is also
pretty cool to be able to make your own home-cured
bacon from simple ingredients.
You’ve written a River Cottage Handbook
on the subject, what can people expect
from it?
Hopefully it will inspire and give confidence to
anyone who wants to embark on a curing or
smoking adventure. There are lots of recipes and
methods covered in the book, as well as detailed
information of the science and sorcery behind it.
You teach cookery courses, appear in the
River Cottage programme and on YouTube,
as well as appearing at festivals, and talking
in schools – what aspect of your role do you
enjoy the most?
I have a ‘made-up’ job that is varied, fun as well as
carrying a certain amount of responsibility, but I enjoy
the opportunity to communicate what River Cottage
stands for across all the aspects of my work.
Which three places would you recommend
to people visiting the area?
One of my favourite areas is Branscombe and I would
recommend a visit either to the beach or surrounding
countryside. I like to cycle and there is a wonderful
route from the quayside in Exeter that takes you along
the waterside to a great pub called Turf Locks which can
only be reached via bike or boat. One of the best places
to enjoy the view of Lyme Bay is on top of the coastal
path at a point called Stonebarrow, near Charmouth.
What’s your best-kept secret for the area?
The Seaside Boarding House in Burton Bradstock.
River Cottage HQ, located on the Devon and Dorset
border, is home to the award-winning Cookery School,
unique dining experiences and memorable events.
Visit for more information or
call 01297 630 300.