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48

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Flight Time

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JULY 2019

Inspiration

Our evening stay was at Watergate

Bay near Newquay, a surfing hotspot

with a two-mile-long sandy beach. The

campsite manager told us about a great pub

a mile or so inland, The Travellers Rest at

Trevarrian (

www.travellersrestcornwall.co.uk

).

I’d recommend this friendly, family pub – it

was lovely inside and my dinner of hake fillet

with garlic and herb crumb and roasted new

potatoes was pub dining at its very best.

DAY 5: FALMOUTH – HELIGAN –

MEVAGISSEY – VERYAN – PORTLOE

I’d spotted there was a bakery in Falmouth

where you could pay £10 for a pasty-making

lesson and it included a pasty, too. Charlie

Choak the Cornish baker turned out to be

quite a character. He whisked us through a

pasty-making lesson with a brilliant mix of

confusion and hilarity and in between laughs,

we got to grips with crimping, which was

much fiddlier than I expected. It was worth it

an hour later when we were sat in the park,

smugly devouring our creations. A tenner

well spent!

In the afternoon, with the sun shining, we

drove to The Lost Gardens of Heligan (

www.

heligan.com )

near St Austell, which I really fell

in love with. We were lucky to visit when

carpets of bluebells surrounded the woodland

sculpture trail and we strolled down into the

Lost Valley, through the ‘Jungle’ with its rope

bridge and exotic, brightly-coloured plants

and flowers, and into the walled kitchen

gardens. A great family day out, Heligan also

has farm animals and some of the best ice

cream around.

Just a few miles away, Mevagissey was

another pleasant surprise and we wished we

had more time to spend there. After a walk

around the harbour walls, from which we

caught sight of seals bobbing in the sea, it

was time to check into a lovely campsite at

Veryan. After dinner chez campervan, we

walked to Portloe, a tiny fishing village that

boasted a 17th-century inn-turned-four-

star-hotel, The Lugger, and a traditional

pub, The Ship Inn. It was uphill on the walk

back but in the serene night, with the starry

sky to gaze at, it was almost as romantic

as the bus stop in Bude wasn’t. I couldn’t

believe I’d never been to this beautiful oasis

of the Cornish coast before, the Roseland

Peninsula, and definitely plan to go back.

DAY 5: DARTMOUTH – SOMERSET

On our last day we drove back up to Devon,

past Plymouth and on to Dartmouth for

lunch. The Seahorse (

www.seahorserestaurant.

co.uk )

is Mitch Tonks’ restaurant on the

banks of the River Dart, known for its

exceptional seafood, and we had a special

meal here to mark the end of our trip.

The restaurant was full of life, and the

Mediterranean-inspired menu features

freshly-caught local fish. We tried whipped

salt cod with Italian bread, scallops, monkfish

carpaccio, whole lemon sole with capers and

pickled cucumber and moreish cuttlefish

fritti – and (the non-driver) topped it off

with ‘sgroppino’, an Italian palate cleanser

traditionally made from Prosecco, vodka and

lemon sorbet, which I vowed to recreate at

home. The Seahorse is perfect for a special

occasion, but they have a surprisingly-

reasonable ‘locals’ menu’ too, at just £20 for

three courses before 7pm.

F L I G H T D E TA I L S

Flybe has flights to Exeter from Alicante

(until 25th October), Amsterdam, Belfast

City, Bergerac, Dublin, Edinburgh, Faro

(until 26th October), Glasgow, Guernsey,

Jersey, London City, Málaga, Manchester,

Newcastle, Norwich (until 25th October),

Paris CDG, Palma Mallorca (until 26th

October) and Rennes.

Flybe has flights to Newquay from Belfast

City, Birmingham, Doncaster Sheffield

(until 14th September), Edinburgh,

Glasgow, Leeds Bradford, Liverpool,

London Heathrow, Manchester and

Newcastle. Flybe’s franchise partner

Stobart Air has flights to Newquay from

London Southend. Flybe’s franchise

partner Blue Islands has flights to

Newquay from Guernsey and Jersey.

There was just time to call in to see

friends in Somerset on our journey

home, in a lovely village pub called The

Bell in Broadway, near Ilminster (

www.

thebellbroadway.com )

, a hit for its delicious

pizza and yummy halloumi fries. And of

course, we’d learnt by now that there are

more important things about camping in a

cool-looking VW van than shamelessly using

it to try to impress our friends’ six-year-old

and two-year-old. Probably. We were very

impressed by our Rockin home on wheels –

now it’s just time to save up for our own…

Clockwise from

above

: The

Seahorse Restaurant

in Dartmouth;

Mevagissey; The Lost

Gardens of Heligan

Below

: Pasty man

Charlie Choak in

action