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JULY 2019

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Flight Time

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47

Inspiration

Previous spread

: Veryan Campsite, Truro; Watergate Bay

Opposite, clockwise from top left

: Our first

campsite, with the van set up for the night; Salcombe, Devon; Blackpool Sands, Dartmouth

This page, left to right

: The beach at Bude; stunning St Ives; Tate St Ives

about the different vans, and adventures,

the couple had enjoyed during that time,

and I thought how unusual it would be to

stop in the street in Birmingham and talk to

someone like this. It made me realise there

was much more to van life than waving at

VW drivers.

DAY 3: PADSTOW – WADEBRIDGE –

BODMIN – PORT ISAAC – BUDE

Although our moods were sunny after

this serene stay, the weather was grey and

drizzly. We were staying near Bude in North

Cornwall that night, but decided to retreat

further down the Cornish coast to Padstow.

Here, we ate a pasty, obviously, then hired

bikes from Padstow Cycle Hire (

www.

padstowcyclehire.com )

and cycled some 20-odd

miles along the Camel Trail, to Bodmin and

back, via Wadebridge. It was flat, easy cycling

next to the estuary and on through the

countryside. If you’d done enough forward

planning, it would be very easy to stop off at

Camel Valley Winery on your way. Sadly, we

hadn’t, although we did get a quick gawp at

the outside of Bodmin prison.

We called in at Port Isaac on the way

back up the coast. Richard hadn’t visited

much of Cornwall and I wanted him to see

an idyllic Cornish fishing village. Port Isaac

didn’t disappoint. Although we noticed

a sign in The Golden Lion, the beautiful

18th-century pub on the harbour (

www.

thegoldenlionportisaac.co.uk )

, saying it would

be closed the following evening for

Doc

Martin

filming, we’d hit upon a quiet

afternoon, where only a few other people

were wandering around the little paths

between the old fishing cottages.

The Bude campsite was nine miles south

of town, at the side of the A39. It was a wet

evening and we were tired from the cycling,

so we had a lacklustre trudge around Bude,

hoods up, trying to make out the sea in the

darkness on Summerleaze Beach, and took

shelter in a chippy. We ended up wolfing

down the warming contents of our paper

parcels in a bus shelter, looking out at the

gloomy, rainy night. “This is romantic when

people do it in the movies,” I told Richard, just

before I got drenched by the 319 to Barnstaple.

DAY 4: ST IVES – WATERGATE BAY –

TREGURRIAN – TREVARRIAN

With plans to explore the nearby coastal

walks of Tintagel and Boscastle scuppered by

grey skies, we made the most of being mobile

and spent a day in everyone’s favourite

place, St Ives. Here, though, the seagulls can

spot a pasty a mile off. They’re my personal

worst nightmare, threatening to take away

everything I love. Despite repeated warnings,

Richard didn’t heed my nervous predictions,

brazenly eating his pasty right out in the

open – perilous, I thought. Luckily for us, the

winged gang of thieves targeted some girls

walking along with ice creams. I was glad to

hurriedly shake off any errant pasty crumbs

and get going on a coastal walk around the

headland, admiring the sight of the beautiful

beaches of St Ives from the clifftop, then

getting a taste of the town’s artistic history

in Tate St Ives.